Entry tags:
Julia's Secret Photographic Technique PART 5
Composition
What you don't show in the frame is far more important than what you do show.
I see lots and lots of convention photos, where the photographer has used an ultra-wide lens to get an entire person in the frame, all the way from their head to their feet… But… nobody wants to look at those feet, they're just not interesting. You don't need to fit someone's feet into every shot with them. If the feet are interesting, then take a picture of the feet directly. Give everyone a good look at them, because when they're at the bottom of a person, in the center of the frame, you can't see them — you can't see that much else either. Choose what you want the subject of the photo to be, and only show that. Most people, being animals, find eyes and faces to be interesting. You won't go wrong using those as a subject.
Use a fast lens, at a wide-open aperture (f/1.4 to f/2.8 if you can) to blur out the background too. Nobody is interesting in the background, unless it is interesting. At a convention, the background is a hotel, which isn't as interesting as whatever drove you to take the photo.
The lens which I recommend for everyone to use is an f/1.4 50mm prime. To which most people say: "But! But! How will I zoom?!" The solution is very simple:
If you want to subject to appear larger, move closer to the subject.
If you want to subject to appear smaller, move away from the subject.
If you are at a party or convention, where you can hold a normal conversation with your subject, you don't need a zoom
Take these two photos for example:


I was speaking with
You're not stuck in one place when you take a photo, move around.
In summary:
Showing less, is actually more. There is less to distract the eye and the mind from the purity of essence, of whatever it was you wanted to capture by taking the photo in the first place. Make your photo be about one thing, and one thing only. The totality of it's meaning should all be focused on it's message.
(I guess you could say "Take a picture, of what you're taking a picture of, and don't take a picture of what you're not taking a picture of.")
(Does anyone think that I should give a presentation on this stuff at FC? "How to take convention photos that don't suck")
† Technically, from a scientific-optical point of view, it's all the same angle: 50mm.
no subject
BTW: THANK YOU for mentioning this. I've made that point to many of my friends and students who want to do photography. When they first start, they want to remain completely static...I think because they're afraid of jostling their lenses and getting blurry shots. However, no one but GlamourShots likes completely static pictures! And besides, there's no point in using zoom--optical or digital--unless you absolutely have to.
no subject
no subject
So, 35mm lenses that are "non digital" lenses will appear to be a 50mm lens.
Canon makes this distinction on their EOS lenses between the EF and EF-S series.
I have a Canon 5D, so no crop issues for me!
no subject
no subject
no subject
no subject
I think you should give a talk on con photos that don't suck at FC. I think a lof folks would be into it. If you do & if you can... try to include ways that a financially challenged furry can take cool pix too. This leads me to my next question... Does one have to have a 1500$ camera to have such a lens?
Also, if you're ever up for it... A tutorial on f-stops might be of interest to umm me. Post numero six, peut-etre?
no subject
I wish I had a digital SLR, but I do own a couple of old Nikons, one of which is an FM2. I forget what lenses I have for them, but certain I have a fast one of some sort but not sure if that would be a 50mm. Since I don't have a darkroom I haven't shot anything in quite some time. However, after seeing all the photos you've posted it makes me want to blow the dust of them and go shoot.
no subject
Everybody could do with a bit better photographic perspective, because then they're always just a *bit* more likely to look for beautiful things around them :) Also, anaisdjuna made a really important comment about the difference between SLRs of any type, and the more basic point-and-click digital or film camera.
The rules of good composition apply, even without the ability to blur backgrounds! Get in the kitchen and Ham That Up! sorry, got carried away by the corn ;)
no subject
I think maybe that's the real problem with people's snapshots. They are thinking about the photo wrong. For most people, a photo is a static and dead thing. It's meant to capture a moment and hold onto it forever. A good photo is a living thing. It is active. It tells a story. It invites questions and provokes thought and creates a mystery. A good photo does not capture an image to hold it forever. It creates a story that no one else has seen.
no subject
no subject
* Your color/whitebalance is off. I'm looking at your images on a color-calibrated monitor and there's a definite yellow/green cast to the image and they are too dark.
* At 50mm/f1.4, the focus area is approximately 3-4 inches. Notice how on the left image her eye and forehead is in focus, and nothing else is? Going below f/4 (well, maybe you can get away with f/2.8 if you're using average AF focus) isn't going to get the entire face in focus. f/2.8 will provide plenty of Bokeh (that lovely blurred background effect) and give you more of the face in focus.
* In the second image, I'm trying to figure out how you managed to get red eye, and have the image come out too dark at the same time. Did you stop the flash down?
Aside from these problems, the composition is very good.
no subject
no subject
There's definitely some colored lighting going on in the two images used as an example in this post, but the colors look fine on my Powerbook, and the contrast is fine.
no subject
Case in point:
No flash, f1.4 @ 1/60th in a dark restaurant:
No flash, f2.8 @ 1/20th of a second (Image stabilized):
no subject
...as for "zooming with your feet", well, that only goes so far - a head shot through a 24mm looks different than a head shot through a 50mm and it looks very different than through a 100mm lens. A lot depends on the effect desired and if one is looking to compress or accentuate perspective for a shot those things can really come in handy. Still, it's fair to advise to start with a prime, and preferably a fast one at that.
But yeah, agreed on the obsessive need to show the whole body. Often, it's just not necessary. When I'm doing a shoot for someone I try and take one for the preview or for their photo sake, but unless they really make the outfit, they're not needed.
no subject
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yes, I think you should! :D
BTW, photos of people should only be taken from the waist up, because it will make the subject look slimmer than if you photograph the entire body.